Treasures of Upper Bucks River Country

Uncovering hidden gems by land, sea or air.
By Maryanna S. Phinn

Your “bucket list” may include exploring exotic countries like China or Australia or experiencing le Tour de France or Pamplona Running of the Bulls. But finding the time and money to visit other countries may not be immediately realistic. Not to worry.
Right in our midst is a country of villages and hamlets near the Delaware River of Upper Bucks County awaiting exploration and filled with hidden jewels.
In fact, ShermansTravel.com, an online travel resource, recently ranked Bucks County third in its Top 10 Quick Summer Getaways for 2010—right behind Portugal and Bermuda.
In the Upper Bucks River Country, explorers find villages that hug the riverbank and canal towpath or travel a few miles inland to discover scenic trails, covered bridges, spectacular overlooks and musical boulders. Historic sites and inns are found everywhere along the route, stretching back to pre-Revolutionary War times.
“We call it the ‘Final Frontier of Bucks County,’” notes Pam Lazor, of the River Road Business Alliance which represents businesses on both sides of the river, including Upper Bucks County from Centre Bridge to Riegelsville. “River Road is one of the top scenic roads in the country. It’s untouched, not commercialized, very quiet and preserved. It’s real,” adds Lazor, who relocated to Upper Bucks County from New York City.
Every treasure hunter can use a good map. A great map for a day or weekend trip is available on www.resortmaps.com or distributed free by local merchants in nearby New Hope or in Lambertville, NJ.
River country is intriguing and entices exploration by land, sea or air. And every explorer looks for hot tips. Here are just a few gems for your journey. Happy trails!
The Delaware River – The Jewel of the East
The Delaware River is 330 miles and the longest free-flowing undammed river in the eastern United States. It originates in the Catskill Mountains in New York, creates a natural boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey flows to Delaware and into the Atlantic Ocean.
In Upper Bucks County, the Delaware River is a way of life and a force to be reckoned with. “We had three major floods in less than two years (2004-2006) but we didn’t let that get us down,” explains Lazor. Despite road closures and detours after the floods, most businesses, restaurants and inns remained resilient and stayed open.  Today, roads and paths near the river and canals are open and clear – ready for sightseers and adventurers.
Delaware Canal & Towpath Is Open!
The summer of 2010 is a time for celebration along the 60-mile Delaware Canal & Towpath that runs parallel to the Delaware River. According to the Friends of the Delaware Canal, the towpath trail is completely open from Easton to Bristol for walking, hiking, horseback riding and cycling.
It underwent $29 million in repairs from the flood damage, particularly in Upper Bucks County. The canal will also be completely re-watered for the first time in twenty years for boaters, kayakers and canoers. The historic 19-century towpath was once a major artery for supplying coal, by mule-drawn barges from northeastern Pennsylvania to Philadelphia and other cities.
Many inns and restaurants along the canal offer dining alfresco so park the car and take a walk along the canal – you may be pleasantly surprised at what you find!
Guide to Upper Bucks River Towns
By Land, Sea or Air
If you’re driving, travel north on Route 32 or “River Road” past New Hope. Routes 202, 263 and 611 also intersect with Route 32. The road winds and dips along the way so slow down for incredible views of the river, canal, cliffs, lush foliage, horse farms and golden meadows. With luck, you may glimpse our national treasure – the majestic bald eagle has gloriously returned to nest along the Delaware River.
Pennsylvania’s Fish & Boat Commission (www.fish.state.pa.us) provides information on where to launch boats. If you’re bicycling or walking, follow the newly restored Delaware Canal & Towpath.
If you prefer air travel, you’ll find another hidden gem in the heart of river country called The Van Sant Airport in Erwinna (www.vansantairport.com). The airport is reminiscent of vintage travel (think Howard Hughes) complete with biplane, piper cub and glider rides. On sunny weekend afternoons, Harley bikers often arrive to picnic and watch classic planes take off and land.
Centre Bridge, PA – The heart of the village is the intersection of Routes 32 and 263 and the Centre Bridge-Stockton Bridge.  A famous painting by Pennsylvania Impressionist Edward Willis Redfield depicts the bridge’s devastating fire in 1923 at the James A. Michener Art Museum in Doylestown.
• Dilly’s Corner, 2998 River Road, is a popular spot for bikers, hikers and tourists. Enjoy ice cream, water ice and its famous “Dilly Dogs” (i.e. 1/4 pound hot dog, fried peppers, onions and french fries on a toasted torpedo roll). Walk off the extra calories by exploring the bridge’s pedestrian walkway to Stockton, NJ or take the bridge’s stairs down to explore the canal towpath.
Lumberville, PA – Six miles north of New Hope, this charming town’s name reflects its industrial history in lumbering, sawmills and quarrying, which continues today. The 688-foot Lumberville-Raven Rock Bridge is the Delaware River’s pedestrian only footbridge leading to Bulls Island State Park, NJ. A local resident and veteran hung a gigantic American flag off the bridge after the 9-11-01 attacks. Old Glory continues to fly making the historic bridge a favorite sightseeing spot and backdrop for local artists.
• Black Bass Hotel (www.blackbasshotel.com) – “The “Jewel of the Delaware has been restored to its true splendor!” It’s true.  The Black Bass Hotel is back and recently celebrated its first anniversary. The 265-year old hotel and restaurant had fallen victim of road closures after the floods. But new owners purchased it in 2008 and meticulously renovated it and the Lumberville General Store (www.thelumbervillegeneralstore.com) across the road. The restaurant, tavern, riverdeck and luxury suites at the historic landmark re-opened last year. One suite is named for President Grover Cleveland who frequented the inn and fished nearby while Governor of New York.
Point Pleasant, PA – A “pleasant” village and centrally located for outdoor lovers. Just a few miles inland are two parks, the 612-acre Tohickon Valley Park for camping, hiking, fishing and birdwatching. It is near High Rocks, a well-known destination for climbers. Ralph Stover State Park adjoins Tohickon Valley Park and trails lead to High Rocks in both parks.
• Bucks County River Country (www.rivercountry.net) – No trip to Upper Buck is complete until visitors splash and cool off by tubing, kayaking, rafting or canoeing on the Delaware! Also offers night boating around the full moon.
• The Famous River Hot Dog Man (www.riverhotdogman.com) – At Adventure Island in the Delaware River, lunching with the Famous River Hot Dog Man (a.k.a. Greg Crance) is a must. “It’s paradise out here,” says the Hot Dog Man, “this is one of the best summers for weather that we’ve ever had. It’s pristeen!” Tubers and other water adventurers have floated up since 1987. Enjoy lunch on picnic tables in the water, you’ll relish the experience!
Erwinna, PA – Erwinna is a hamlet in Tinicum Township and near Tinicum Park which hosts polo matches from May through October and several outdoor events for the arts, kites, dogs, flowers and a fall antiques show.  Erwinna is close to several of Bucks County’s historic covered bridges.
• Sand Castle Winery (www.sandcastlewinery.com) – The steep, winding road leading to the winery evokes imagery of a European countryside and the view from the top is absolutely spectacular.  The winery offers a full schedule of tastings, festivals and tours. In 2010, owners Joseph and Paul Maxian, natives of Czehoslovakia, added an Upstairs Gallery on the second floor. “We wanted to create the complete experience of art, wine, music and culture,” explains Joseph Maxian, adding that the gallery includes paintings, crystal, and sculpture available for purchase.
Upper Black Eddy, PA – This picturesque river village is home to the 128-acre Ringing Rocks Park about two miles inland. The park includes High Falls, Bucks County’s largest (and possibly only) waterfall and its famous seven-acre boulder field of rocks that chime like bells when struck by a hammer.
• Bucks County Riverboat Company at Keller’s Landing (www.kellerslanding.com)  –
“Most people do not think of Bucks County for sunsets,” explains Captain Dee Keller, “but the river makes a nice bend to the west and we get beautiful sunsets.” Captain Keller’s River Otter, a 52-foot tri-pontoon boat, goes up river on weekends throughout the summer and early fall for “Public Sunset Cocktail Cruises.” It’s a relaxing way to explore the river, offering a full cash bar, satellite radio, air conditioning and restrooms. “It’s a great stretch of river, it’s pristine and no industry to speak of,” says Captain Keller who provides a short narration during the cruises that last approximately one and a half hours. Captain Keller also operates Bucks County Trolley Company for private parties.
Riegelsville, PA – In far northern Upper Bucks County, Riegelsville is a small town borough with a touch of New York City. The Riegelsville Toll-Supported Bridge is one of six “century bridges” or over 100 years old. Built in 1904, the bridge was designed by John A. Roebling Sons Company, who designed the famous Brooklyn Bridge. The one-of-a-kind multiple-span suspension bridge is undergoing improvements to preserve its integrity and history for years to come.
• Riegelsville Public Library (www.riegelsvillelibrary.info) – Visit a small town library fully equipped for the 21st century. The library was the former home of Riegelsville Academy in 1886, an exclusive private school. It continues the rich tradition of providing the community educational resources and opportunities.
For more information about Upper Bucks County, visit www.visitriverroad.com or www.visitbuckscounty.com.
Maryanna S. Phinn is a freelance writer from Washington Crossing, PA.

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