La Cena

By Neil Harner

It’s comforting to know that there are still restaurants in the community where the customer is made to feel like family and dining was not only about a meal but rather a full experience. There could be no better example of this sentiment than Bensalem’s La Cena Italian Ristorante.

When you first enter the doors of La Cena you are greeted by one of their kindly staff, and more than likely Massimo himself, the restaurant’s charismatic and charming Maître d’. Even if it’s your first time there, you’ll be greeted like an old friend and be shown to a table uniquely selected for your evening’s experience. Massimo explains, “There is not a bad seat in the house, but there’s a better seat for every diner.” In corners along mosaic walls in romantically lit corners, there are tables for two. Throughout the restaurant you’ll find tables for 4 to 6 for a family or small groups of friends.  And in the back there is a semi-divided space perfect for a large group. Or, if you’re looking for a more casual night out for a few drinks, there is the beautiful bar which flows around a stage with a baby-grand piano that feels like a set out of an old 50’s film. And on the particular night, we were serenaded by a talented duo—a highlight that La Cena offers on Wednesday through Saturday nights.

Starting out the evening with a champagne toast or a glass of wine is highly recommended as La Cena maintains a superb wine list featuring styles and varieties from around the world. And if you aren’t sure exactly what to order, Massimo is a Sommelier capable of choosing the perfect glass or bottle of wine to match your palette or your meal.

My date and I started out our dining experience by sharing a very spring-inspired salad featuring fresh greens, salty and creamy goat cheese, dried fruits, walnuts, blood oranges, and light vinaigrette. Although seemingly simplistic, this refreshing and flavorful salad was the perfect introduction to whet my appetite.

Shortly following, we selected two of the appetizer specials, the Faugattino, a delicate and perfectly flaky pastry stuffed with exotic mushrooms in a cream sauce and their Clams Casino, which I could only describe as the best I’ve ever had. Having the opportunity to ask Chef Mauricio what made them so special, his reply was that he only uses the freshest of clams and never frozen. The other difference is that he uses very fine pancetta rather than bacon which provides an incredible smokey richness without the grease.

Moving onto our main course, I had a hard time selecting as their seemed to be too many options to choose from.  So in order to make sure we had enough of a sampling, my date order the Veal Picatta, a traditional Italian dish. I ordered the Branzino, a Mediterranean fish, by the recommendation of Massimo. He touted the dish as being the restaurant’s signature preparation, so I knew that I couldn’t go the night without trying it. And we ordered finally a trio of pastas to share.

The Veal Picatta was spot on what I would come to expect from an Italian Chef.  Very traditional and perfectly prepared the veal had just the right flavors and tenderness. The pastas were quite delicious and comprised of the a ravioli in marinara, pasta in a pesto sauce, and the homemade Gorgonzola cheese gnocchi were exceptionally rich from the cheese, but maintained the perfect texture of delicate fluffy pillows.

The real highlight though was the Branzino which was nothing short of impressive and I could see immediately why it was the restaurant’s signature. Brought to the table as a whole fish, it is delicately filleted at the table and presented on the plate by the server in the notable shape of the French Fleur-de-lis. The fish melts in your mouth like butter and is deeply infused with the flavors of the white wine and lemon in which it was prepared. And truth be told, according to Chef Mauricio, “you’ll never find the fish being served if it’s more than 24 hours old. I use an exclusive purveyor who imports the fish fresh daily from the Mediterranean.”

Already quite full, we couldn’t deny ourselves one of La Cena’s many dessert offerings. And how could we deny it when a complete tray was being brought to our table side? We completed our meal with a slice of their white chocolate mousse cake and their fresh, daily made Panna Cotta, vanilla custard with fresh blood orange and a raspberry sauce which had the perfect balance of sweetness from the vanilla cream and tartness from the fruit.

By the time we were leaving, the restaurant was getting ready to pack down for the evening but the staff was just as enthusiastic and attentive as when we first arrived. You could tell that the restaurant’s Maitre d’ and Chef care deeply about what they have created together and the rest of their staff shares in their vision of a unique and elegant Italian restaurant that delivers the quality experience that perceptually is only reserved for Center City. La Cena not only lives up to those standards but significantly exceeds them. And perhaps just as impressive, they deliver this quality at extremely reasonable costs. As a last note, if you can’t make it out, La Cena also offers take out including pizzas, sandwiches, and many of the restaurants normal offerings—delivering the quality of their cuisine right to your home.

La Cena Italian Ristorante is located at 2233 Galloway Road, Bensalem, PA 19020. To see their complete dine-in and takeout menu, visit www.lacenarestaurant.com. For reservations call (215) 639-9969 and for takeout call (215) 639-2259.

Neil Harner is a self proclaimed flavor-geek and one of the founders of Philly Beer Scene, a magazine dedicated to craft beer culture throughout the Philadelphia area.