Back to Nature on Sanibel Island

By Beth D’Addono

Something happens to the world’s clock about halfway across the Sanibel Causeway, the hustle and bustle of Fort Myers left behind, a canopy of lush greenery and expanse of sea unfolding ahead. Time seems to shimmer, and slow down. Without a single high-rise to distract–buildings are low slung affairs on this swathe of island–the eyes are drawn to nature. And in this balmy spot, which has only its size in common with the island of Manhattan, nature has the right of way.

Located just off the coast of southwest Florida, west of Fort Myers, Sanibel casts a small shadow in the Gulf, measuring roughly 12 miles long and three miles across at its widest point, with its sister isle Captiva just four miles long and one-half mile wide. These intimate parameters are easily scaled, by bike, foot, and kayak, making a visit to Sanibel the greenest of getaways.

Once home to the enterprising Calusa Indians, who roamed its coves 2,500 years ago, Sanibel, and neighboring Captiva hosted Spanish explorers, pirates and pioneering settlers into the 19th century. Before long, wealthy industrialists like Thomas Edison and Henry Ford extended their Fort Myers’ holidays with visits to unbridged Sanibel Island for total rest and relaxation. The island’s foray into hospitality dates to the late 1880s, when the Casa Ybel Resort hosted its first guests.

That tradition of warm hospitality continues today, as more than one million tourists make Sanibel a regular holiday destination. While other Florida spots offer sizzling nightlife and mega-attractions, Sanibel is more suited to a low-tech crowd. Come here if spying a white pelican diving for fish gives you a thrill, or if your idea of a hallowed cathedral is a leafy canopy of trees covering a secluded waterway. Rise early and join the serious shellers that comb the beach, drawn to Sanibel for its more than 400 species of shells, tumbled in the hollow of its boomerang shape by the criss-crossing tides.

The next time you need to recharge your batteries, leave civilization behind, and set your course for Sanibel Island, a soul-soothing retreat that will bring your world back into balance. Here are just a few highlights to take in during your visit. Allow yourself time to find more gems on your own.

Paddle the Great Calusa Blueway: Follow in the wake of the Calusa Indians, who first paddled along this pristine coastline. There is 190 miles of marked water trails, putting you up close and personal with leggy wading birds, mangrove tunnels and sugar-sand beaches.
www.CalusaBlueway.com

Tour the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum: The only museum in North American dedicated solely to seashells, this stunning repository of hundreds of rare mollusks from around the world includes hands-on exhibits for kids and a gallery dedicated to the shells of Sanibel. www.shellmuseum.org

Bike the Island: Traversing the island on two-wheels is the best way to stay close to nature. Follow 26 miles of paved bike trails through leafy neighborhoods, out to the island’s lighthouse, past shops and cafes and across wooden bridges with ocean views.

Dining Fine and Casual: Dining is mostly a casual affair on Sanibel and Captiva, with spots like Doc Fords Rum Bar & Grille, (www.docfordssanibel.com) offering fresh fish in a convivial pub atmosphere and the Bubble Room (www.bubbleroomrestaurant.com), with its collection of nutty Hollywood memorabilia, retro bubble lights and tropical flavors. For a more sophisticated dining experience, visit the Thistle Lodge Beachfront Restaurant (www.thistlelodge.com), where executive chef John Wolff wows with dishes like Parmesan crusted grouper and house smoked fish.

Where to Stay: The Sanibel Inn 931 E. Gulf Dr. 239-472-3181 www.sanibelinn.com Newly renovated, each screened in unit includes a kitchenette and plenty of elbowroom. From $135 poolside to $239 for an oceanfront suite.

For more information visit www.FortMyersSanibel.com.

Bucks Living’s Travel Editor Beth D’Addono lives in Belmont Hills.